“How the frames are finished.” Discover lesson 4 of the master Sandro Gonnella

lesson N°4

Filing and sanding

Once cut by the pantograph, the frame needs to be finished with extreme care. With the use of a file, Sandro removes any slight excess of acetate. It is a particularly delicate task: the excess material is only a few millimetres in size. One must be very careful not to cut into the acetate. For this reason, only the skilled hands of a master know the right moves. A little secret to begin following in his footsteps? In order not to damage the surface of the frame, Sandro also uses a piece of fine sandpaper. It is also crucial to proceed by small steps and never try to arrive too quickly at the final result.

A comfortable nose fit

Again using a file, Sandro finishes the angle of the nose of the glasses to eliminate any sharp edges. This is the most critical point for the comfort of the end customer, so it is good idea to dedicate a lot of time to this task.

One must be careful not to overdo it with the filing. To check your work, it is a good idea to try and retry the frame on the customer during the entire phase.

The tumbling

In the tumbling phase, all the sharp corners on the frame will be eliminated, thereby creating the classical soft and shiny look across the whole surface. Only with this technique, using the rolling friction of wood particles and abrasive paste, can we obtain a pair of glasses with perfectly rounded corners and is thus comfortable to wear. Since it is a standard process which requires no particular manual contribution, it is often conducted by outside technicians.

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The tailored eyewear course

In 6 lessons Sandro Gonnella will illustrate how a dialogue with the customer, various inspirations and technology can give rise to a true masterpiece "Made in Italy." All the secrets and tips for talented young people from the most appreciated "eyeglass tailor" in the world.

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the programme

the programme

  • 30_09_2014 30_09_2014
  • 07_10_2014 07_10_2014
  • 14_10_2014 14_10_2014
  • 21_10_2014 21_10_2014
  • 28_10_2014 28_10_2014
  • 04_11_2014 04_11_2014

Lesson n° 1

Knowing your customer means being able to design the perfect eyewear. How to establish a genuine relationship and intuitively use small details to choose the features of the finished eyewear.

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Lesson n° 2

Designing a tailor-made frame. How to take inspiration from art, architecture and the local territory and then imagine the perfect pair of glasses for each customer. Creative interaction with the client.

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Lesson n° 3

From the design to the pantograph. Cutting the nose pads, the lens and the rim: the primordial frame takes shape. Feedback and interaction with the customer.

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Lesson n° 4

Having obtained a basic model with the pantograph, now all sharp edges and the excess material left by the first mechanical cutting must be removed skilfully by hand.

Lesson n° 5

How to obtain the characteristic curve of the bridge of the glasses by using the Clavulus. In addition, how to choose and manually apply the perfect endpieces for any type of temple.

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Lesson n° 6

Once the tumbling has been completed in a specialised laboratory, it is time to apply the "signature" that a young outstanding craftsman Made in Italy should use to take his place in the world. To conclude the customer experience, a suitable handmade case must be chosen and all the elements in detail must be given a final cleaning.

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