“Cutting the acetate.” Discover lesson 3 of the master Sandro Gonnella

lesson N°3

The pantograph

Once the perfect harmony with the client has been created and you have agreed on the ideal colour of the acetate, it is time to proceed with the cutting of the acetate in order to create the frame. Acetate is available in long and narrow sheets. From these sheets the section is cut which will then become our pair of glasses by following various steps. In the CAD file of the project, in fact, each layer is associated with a finishing stage, performed with a CNC milling machine.

This is the moment when an idea becomes a primordial frame through the use of technology.

The pantograph used by Sandro is a CNC milling machine that works both on a vertical and horizontal axis so as to allow a continuous motion that never requires moving the object being machined. Programmed to follow faithfully the digital design, the tip of the pantograph cuts the acetate to make frames and lenses that are homothetic to the original.

The incision of the rim

Prior to cutting the rim, which is the recess in which the lenses are positioned, it is necessary to change the working end of the pantograph. Sandro recommends a tapered drill to form the basic structure that will house each lens.

The importance of the craftsman's care

The technology at this stage is crucial, but always requires care and knowledge. Sandro's rigid supervision is therefore essential in this phase, too, in order to create a pair of high quality glasses. There are in fact many manual adjustments that are beyond the scope of a mechanical translation of a CAD file onto a cut sheet of acetate; these are fruit of his experience in the eyewear industry and in the finishing laboratories of highly skilled craftsmen. Once the the primary structure is completed, several manual operations and finishing touches are now necessary.

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The tailored eyewear course

In 6 lessons Sandro Gonnella will illustrate how a dialogue with the customer, various inspirations and technology can give rise to a true masterpiece "Made in Italy." All the secrets and tips for talented young people from the most appreciated "eyeglass tailor" in the world.

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the programme

the programme

  • 30_09_2014 30_09_2014
  • 07_10_2014 07_10_2014
  • 14_10_2014 14_10_2014
  • 21_10_2014 21_10_2014
  • 28_10_2014 28_10_2014
  • 04_11_2014 04_11_2014

Lesson n° 1

Knowing your customer means being able to design the perfect eyewear. How to establish a genuine relationship and intuitively use small details to choose the features of the finished eyewear.

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Lesson n° 2

Designing a tailor-made frame. How to take inspiration from art, architecture and the local territory and then imagine the perfect pair of glasses for each customer. Creative interaction with the client.

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Lesson n° 3

From the design to the pantograph. Cutting the nose pads, the lens and the rim: the primordial frame takes shape. Feedback and interaction with the customer.

Lesson n° 4

Having obtained a basic model with the pantograph, now all sharp edges and the excess material left by the first mechanical cutting must be removed skilfully by hand.

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Lesson n° 5

How to obtain the characteristic curve of the bridge of the glasses by using the Clavulus. In addition, how to choose and manually apply the perfect endpieces for any type of temple.

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Lesson n° 6

Once the tumbling has been completed in a specialised laboratory, it is time to apply the "signature" that a young outstanding craftsman Made in Italy should use to take his place in the world. To conclude the customer experience, a suitable handmade case must be chosen and all the elements in detail must be given a final cleaning.

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